Healthy mu shu pork

While mu shu pork is one of the most bastardized dishes in Chinese cooking, it is also one of the most popular. Here is my rendition of this classic, chock-full of smoky black mushrooms, leeks, cabbage, and crunchy wood ears. These days, 1 substitute good quality flour tortillas for Mandarin pancakes, brush them tightly with toasted sesame oil, and steam them briefly. Stuffed with the stir-fried meat and vegetable mixture, they are quite delicious and filling — a meal-in-one main course.

1 lb center-cut boneless pork loin, trimmed of fat or gristle
4 1/2tbsp canola or corn oil
24 spring roll skins or flour tortillas, separated and folded into quarters
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 leeks, ends trimmed, cleaned, and cut into thin julienne shreds (about 3 cups)
1/2 small Napa cabbage, cut into thin julienne strips, stem sections and leafy sections separated (about 4 cups)
1/4 cup dried wood ears, softened in hot water to cover for 20 minutes, drained, hard ends removed, and cut into thin julienne strips
2 tbsp rice wine or sake
3/4 cup hoisin sauce, mixed with 1 tbsp soy sauce and 2 1/2 tbsp water

Marinade

2 tbsp soy sauce
1 1/2 tbsp rice wine or sake
1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
2 tsp cornstarch

Seasonings

2 tbsp minced garlic
3 tbsp minced fresh ginger
10 dried Chinese black mushrooms, softened in hot water to cover for 20 minutes, stems removed, and caps shredded

Sauce (mixed together)

1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup rice wine or sake
1 tsp sugar
1/3 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp cornstarch

Method

1. Cut the pork loin across the grain into thin slices about 1/4 inch thick, then cut into thin, matchstick-size shreds about 1 inch long. Put the shreds in a bow[, add the Marinade, and toss lightly to coat them. Cover with plastic wrap, and let the pork marinate for 1 hour, or longer if possible.

2. Heat a wok or a heavy skillet, add 2 1/2 tablespoons of the oil, and heat until very hot. Add the pork and stir-fry over high heat about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes, until the meat changes color and is cooked. Scoop it into a colander and drain. Rinse out the pan and dry it.

3. Steam the spring roll skins or tortillas for 5 minutes. Set aside, covered.

4. Reheat the pan, add 1 tablespoon of the oil, and heat until hot. Add the egg, and stirfry over high heat to scramble, then move to the side of the pan.

5. Add another tablespoon of oil, heat until very hot, and add the Seasonings. Stir-fry for 10 seconds until fragrant, then add the leeks and toss lightly over high heat for 1 1/2 minutes. Add the cabbage stems and wood ears, and continue to stir-fry over high heat for 30 seconds. Add the rice wine and leafy cabbage sections, and cook until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Add the premixed Sauce and the meat, and toss lightly to thicken. Scoop onto a serving platter. Put the hoisin into a small serving bowl and the steamed spring roll skins on a plate. Each diner takes a wrapper, smears a tablespoon of the hoisin mixture on it, and spoons some of the stir-fried mixture on top. It is then rolled up and eaten immediately.

Six servings.