Bitter melon (momordica charantia)

This unusual vegetable is very much an acquired taste. It has as many detractors as it has fans, even among the Chinese, but those who love it insist it is worth the effort to appreciate its taste. Bitter melon has a bumpy, dark to pale green skin, and a slightly bitter quinine flavour that has a cooling effect in the mouth. Not surprisingly, it was originally prized for its supposed medicinal qualities: something so bitter had to be good medicine. This tropical fruit’s fibrous seed core is usually cut away, leaving a thin ring of flesh. It is used in soups as well as stir-fried, steamed and quick braised. A popular preparation, which reduces its bitterness, is to stuff it with seasoned pork and steam it. It is often paired with with strong pungent ingredients, such as black beans, garlic, or chilli, that tone down the melon’s bitterness. In some parts of China it is often dried and used as medicine. It is also thought to purify blood and to cool the digestive system.

Shopping tips

Canned bitter melon is less appealing than fresh as it tends to be overcooked and without flavour, so buy only the fresh variety, which can be found at Chinese markets or grocers. The greener, firmer melons tend to be stronger and more bitter, while the yellowish varieties tend to be milder.

Storage notes

Store in the bottom of your refrigerator in a loose plastic or paper bag. It can keep there for about 3-5 days, depending on the condition in which it was bought.

Useful hints

To use, cut in half, seed, and discard interior membrane. Then, to lessen its bitter taste, either blanch in boiling water or salt it, according to the instructions in the recipe.

© Ken Hom and reproduced with his kind permission.